From the wales of your pants to the ribs of your favorite dress, corduroy fabric is an enduring fabric that has been a staple in fashion and home decor for centuries. The raised parallel ridges of the fabric trap air, making it a very warm and cozy textile. It has dipped in and out of fashion over the years, but it’s currently experiencing something of a resurgence. It’s easy to see why: Whether worn tailored smart as general knockabout and hunting clothing for British country gentlemen or mass-produced as working-class uniforms (before Levi’s denim domination), corduroy is hard wearing, durable, and has a luxurious handfeel.
Unlike standard cotton fabrics, which are either a plain or twill weave, corduroy is woven using a third yarn that intersperses in the filling direction with the two primary warp and weft threads. The textile producers cut and brush these supplemental yarns to create the ribbed texture. The number of these wales per inch of fabric is known as its wale count, and the higher the wale count, the finer the corduroy.
Most often, corduroy is made from 100% cotton, although sometimes it is mixed with polyester and/or spandex to add stretch, just like denim. Occasionally, it is also blended with other fibers, such as wool and silk, to give it a luxurious feel and added durability. The most common uses for corduroy are trousers and skirts, but the fabric is very versatile and can be used in dresses, shirts, blazers, and jackets. It is also a popular choice for furniture, particularly sofas and chairs, due to its strength and soft, silky feel.
The most popular colorways for corduroy are browns and greys, but it’s possible to find it in a wide range of colors, from pale pinks and greens to deep blues and reds. It’s also available in a variety of widths, from narrow and fine to wide. The wider the wale, the thicker the fabric and the more likely it is to be used for trousers, but there are some exceptions, which are extremely thin and considered the finest variant, and elephant or jumbo cord, which are incredibly thick and more commonly used in furniture upholstery.
Because it’s such a tough and durable fabric, corduroy requires some special care to ensure that it stays in top condition. It’s best to press it as little as possible to avoid crushing the ridges and creating an uneven surface. Leaving the fabric to hang for a day or two will often help it shed most of its wrinkles, and steaming just above the surface can also be effective. It’s also a good idea to use a breathable storage bag, such as jiffy bags or old pillowcases, to prevent bugs from getting into the fabric when it’s not in use. It is also important to store corduroy out of direct sunlight, as the sun can bleach it and cause it to fade over time.