The ridged texture of corduroy fabric is an excellent choice for casual pants and skirts. It’s also a favorite for outerwear, like jackets and vests. In addition, it’s often used to make home furnishings, including chairs and couches. While many modern fabrics have replaced corduroy in the world of automobile upholstery, this sturdy woven fabric continues to be popular for casual clothing and household items.
This versatile textile is a twill weave and may be made from either cotton or a blend of different fibers such as polyester-cotton, acetate-cotton and so on. It’s available in a variety of colors and widths, from featherweight miniwales with 22 wale per inch to hefty 3-in. jumbo wale, and in a wide array of styles, from classic plain to printed with plaid, floral or paisley patterns. Whether it’s a lightweight pinwale or a textured, wales-per-inch variation, corduroy has a luxurious feel.
Unlike velvet, corduroy is a thicker fabric and has the added benefit of durability. It’s able to stand up to repeated wear and tear, making it an excellent choice for durable workwear garments such as shirts and dresses. It’s also comfortable to wear in cold weather and breathes well, depending on the material used for the wales.
Corduroy can be a bit more difficult to sew than other fabrics, but the results are worth it. With the right techniques and a little practice, anyone can create a stylish, comfortable garment.
When preparing the fabric for cutting, establish the direction of the nap by stroking the fabric parallel to its selvage. It will be smooth when brushed in that direction and rough when brushed in the opposite direction. Skirts and pants are best made with the nap running down, since this helps the seat of the garment resist fading from friction.
Consider adding a full lining to most corduroy garments. This will reduce the number of facings and seam allowances that must be finished, as well as add comfort to the garment. For ease of movement and extra protection against the elements, a lined garment can be made with a sleeveless or half-sleeved style.
A Hong Kong finish is my favorite way to finish a straight or curved seam on corduroy, using either a lightweight strip of fabric or rayon seam tape. The process is similar to hand-sewing an invisible hem, except you sew the binding to the inside of the seam allowance before clipping and pressing open. Alternatively, you can use a zigzag or flat fell stitch to reduce bulk on curved seams, but avoid French seams because they are difficult to sew neatly on corduroy. Be sure to use a matching thread color for all the stitching.